Lamb

An Italian, who these days runs a good restaurant in Tuscany, married an English girl and lived for a while near London. Asked if he enjoyed his time in England he replied that he just could not tolerate the English attitude to lamb and returned to Tuscany with his bride.

I disagree. Apart from the fact that there are other and better reasons for leaving England, the separate treatment of Spring lamb, shearling (which has overwintered), hoggett (another year) and mutton (caper sauce) seems to me a triumph.

For Italians, and particularly for Romans, however, it is now that lamb should be eaten. They know nothing of mutton. Such is the heat in central Italy in summer that lamb is the only creature that spends its entire life out of doors. Pigs, ewes and cattle are brought in before the middle of spring. The lambs eat the early grass and are very good.

For fresh spring lamb the Roman way, which they call abbacchio, get the butcher to hack at the bones to break them, ensuring quicker cooking. Don't plug it with rosemary and garlic, just sprinkle with salt, heat the oven until it is exploding and cook for the shortest time possible. Serve with lemon. And turnips.

The tiny lamb chops are picked up by hand. The Romans call it scottadito - 'burn your fingers'.